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filler@godaddy.com
I am in the process of moving from Humboldt County back to Los Angeles, and after much thought, I have decided to discontinue breeding (as of the end of December 2024). I understand this may be disappointing for those visiting my site in hopes of welcoming home a handfed baby parrot, and I sincerely appreciate all of the interest and support over the years. I intend to keep my website active for educational purposes and outreach, and may consider fostering and rehabilitating parrots in need of rehoming once my remaining flock is settled in at our new location.
in this new chapter, I look forward to dedicating more time to research and writing about avian biology and pet bird care. Many resources on the subject overlook the importance of avian biology and the specific natural environments in which birds evolved, which I believe is essential to understanding why they require such a high level of care to thrive in a home setting. Combining my background in avian biology with hands-on experience in aviculture, I hope to share practical, science-based insights on bird care from a biological perspective. My goal is to create engaging resources that inspire bird owners to provide better living environments for their feathered companions, while fostering a deeper appreciation for the remarkable beings they are - and the unique environments they evolved to inhabit.
Please feel free to contact me with any questions, concerns, or for bird care consultation services at featheredfairies@gmail.com.
I have decided to edit and leave up my Adoptions Agreement and FAQ as quick resources of basic care standards for small parrots. Please see my Bird Care Blog for past and future artciles, and feel free to follow us on Instagram for updates when new articles are published!
Buy Us a Coffee Bird Toy if you would like to help support the Fairy Flock™! <3
Bird Care Blog, Parrot Species, FAQ, Gallery
I adhere to the Closed Aviary concept to maintain the health and security of my birds.
Babies cannot go home until they are fully weaned. I cannot guarantee the sex of every bird at this time, but I can offer an educated judgement. Some may be determined by sex-linked color mutation, or by cere color at 6-8 weeks of age for budgies.
I do my best to make sure my feathered fairies have a smooth transition into your home, but please do your research about the species you want to keep before deciding to buy a bird. I try to provide as much information through my website as my time will allow, so let me know if there is something you cannot find an answer to and I will add it to my FAQ or as a new article in my Bird Care Blog!
I have safe travel cages available in small, medium, and large. This is the easiest, stress-free option for taking home your new bird.
If you choose to buy your own travel cage, please choose wisely! Many on the market are unsafe.
The safest travel cages are made in one-piece construction with a metal frame and allow airflow from all sides so your bird cannot escape, be crushed, or overheat.
All of my parrots are fed a formulated pellet diet (Roudybush or Harrison's) as well as complete whole-food nutrition consisting of sprouted seeds, grains, and legumes, a variety of organic vegetables, leafy greens, berries (and other tropical fruit for the linnies), and a little hard-boiled egg.
They are free-flighted most of the day and caged in a spacious flight only to sleep at night and when I need to leave home to run errands.
Please make sure you have an appropriate enclosure, accessories, and food at home for your desired species before picking up your new bird! It is always recommended to provide the largest cage you can afford and fit in your home, and to make sure it has appropriate bar spacing of up to 1/2" for the species I offer.
Note: The dowel perches that come with most parrot cages are not sufficient for exercising your feathered fairy's feet! Using one dowel in addition to other types of perches is fine, but please have many natural perches with varying widths and textures, and extras to swap out and change up their boring routine. Flat perches are great for them to lay flat on if they need a rest.
Avoid:
Sand perches can cause bumblefoot, a very difficult to cure infection, a please avoid them.
Please avoid fabric cozy huts, particularly the fuzzy ones which are more easily ingested and may cause impaction requiring surgery, or death. Cozy huts of any kinda may promote hormone production and exacerbate behavioral issues in many species. I personally have not had this issue with my linnies, which prefer to sleep covered.
There are toxic fumes, vapors, and other airborne particles that can cause a bird to become very sick or die suddenly without warning. These include overheated Teflon or cast iron pans, self-cleaning ovens, chemical air fresheners or cleaning agents chemical shampoo/conditioner/body wash scents, perfume, nail polish, scented candles, incense, heated vinegar, smoke of any kind, etc. It is always a good idea to have a quality HEPA and/or carbon filter air purifier for your home if you keep a pet bird indoors.
Other foods and substances that are or may be toxic to birds include avocado, onion, garlic (in excess), some spices (in excess), fruit pits, apple seeds, chocolate, caffeine, carbonated drinks, heavily processed/salted/fried/sugary foods, soft cheeses (lactose), peanut butter (choking hazard), xylitol, tropical houseplants, lilies, certain species of wood if chewed - which may be sold as perches or parts of toys for birds online, etc. Always double-check that the species of wood is safe for parrots before buying wooden perches or toys online, or harvesting branches to make your own.
Additional miscellaneous household hazards to birds include windows, mirrors, open toilet bowls or deep dog bowls, a hot stove, narrow spaces between furniture and walls, open doors and windows without screens, other pets, etc.
Other Health Maintenance:
Parakeet nails should not need trimming if they have adequate natural perches. Linnies have faster-growing nails due to being avid climbers, so they may ned the ocasionaly nail trim if they are often resting on softer surfaces.
Overgrown beaks are almost always caused by a medical condition such as fatty liver disease, so please do not trim your bird's beak if it is not recommended by your veterinarian for a specific medical reason. Please take your bird to see an experienced, registered avian veterinarian to receive a correct diagnosis and the best possible care.
Bird Care Blog, Parrot Species, FAQ, Gallery
All birds are guaranteed to be healthy at the time of pickup or delivery. You are HIGHLY encouraged to have your new bird(s) examined by an ABVP registered avian veterinarian of your choice to verify the health of the bird(s).
Note: To be considered an avian specialist, a veterinarian should hold a certificate from the "American Board of Veterinary Practitioners (ABVP)" in the avian practice specialty, which demonstrates advanced knowledge and expertise in treating birds.
If there is any reason you would like to return a bird please contact me for a resolution. I want all of my feathered fairies to be placed into loving forever homes, so I will do my best to work with you. If you ever become unable to keep your bird you may surrender them back to me with prior notice.
If you choose to sell or re-home your bird PLEASE make sure the new owner also receives their digital hatch certificate and knows how to contact me!
If you already have a bird in residence, please quarantine any new birds for a minimum of 45 days for health monitoring, even if you received a clean bill of health from your vet.
This is also the best time to form a personal bond with your new bird(s) before they meet your resident bird, and will allow the birds to become familiar with one another through vocalizations before they meet and reduce tension when introducing them. Always introduce new birds outside their respective cages in neutral territory.
My parrots are allowed to follow their natural hormonal cycles and are never encouraged to lay by artificial means or to lay more clutches per year or more eggs per clutch than is usual for their species. This is usually one or two clutches per year for each pair. I pay attention to their diet, molting patterns, physical condition, and hormonal behaviors to decide when to give them boxes..
My baby parrots are handled from hatching and are co-parented from two weeks of age so they will bond with humans, but still retain their familial connection to their tame parents and learn healthy socialization skills. I also choose to spoon-feed rather than use a syringe (messier but safer) and I practice abundance weaning.
Hand-fed baby birds may take a little longer to wean than parent-raised babies, and spoon-fed babies may never refuse the spoon because it is not an unnatrual intrusion. This can make giving medications to your birds easier later in life.
Learning to fly during fledging is crucial for neurological development and spatial awaerness of young birds. A strong flier is also more likely to be found if they ever become lost outside your home. For these reasons, I strongly advise never to clip your bird's wings unless mediclly necessary. I have never had any safety issues by teaching my babies where the windows and mirrors in my home are so they know to avoid them, and keeping a handsfree magnetic curtain on every doorway.
You can learn more about bird training by researching operant conditioning techniques.
All adoption proceeds help to cover the feeding, housing, and medical care costs for all of my Fairy Flock™.
Support the Fairy Flock™ : Buy Us a Coffee Bird Toy! <3
Copyright © 2024 Feathered Fairies - All Rights Reserved.
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